“When I lay back on a couch and told my mum I wanted to make certified organic lipsticks, I don’t think I really expected the road to be so long and difficult.”
In 2014, two and a half years later, Diana Saltoun Goltsman launched nudus – 10 lipstick colours certified organic with COSMOS.
Finding the right colours
As a former Sydney interior and fashion designer, Diana has made a career out of colours. But never have they posed such a problem as they did when she wanted a wide and effective colour range for makeup.
Diana says, “I told my formulator ‘I want these colours’. She came up with colours based on minerals but I wanted something better.
“There is nothing wrong with minerals but you can’t get a red or beautiful pink from iron oxide.”
Iron oxide is one of the commonly used colouring ingredients accepted under organic standards. It gives you brown and russet tones but Diana wanted more.
They’re unusual ingredients in cosmetics – 27 natural ingredients make up the natural lipstick formulas.
Diana says, “Anyone can produce a lipstick, but if you want to do it organically it’s a lot more challenging, as we don’t use any harmful ingredients to get a desired effect. Supplies can be scarce,” she says.
Formulating for the right fragrance was also tricky.
The lipsticks don’t contain water so they don’t breed bacteria. This means, unlike many skincare products, they don’t need preservatives.
nudus has carried out stability tests on the products and due to mandatory European requirements the lipsticks have expiry dates.
The search for the perfect nudus tube
COSMOS requires beauty companies to use environmentally friendly packaging; however Diana says it’s difficult to find green lipstick tubes that work.
The paper tubes other lipstick companies used didn’t didn’t wear and tear well. Diana says, “They ground up in handbags and turned fluffy when rubbed against fabric. They looked like tampons!”
“Then we thought we’d go for something made from corn but we’re not allowed to use GM corn and the only available packaging was made from GM corn.” COSMOS approved an exception for a plastic tube that doesn’t contain BPA; however, she says she will continue to explore other options.
The lipsticks are handmade, reducing waste; however Diana wants to introduce an incentive that encourages women to return the tubes for recycling.
nudus began because Diana wanted women to have access to high quality, safe cosmetics.
We think she’s definitely done it and Sustainable Shopper looks forward to nudus expanding their beauty products very soon!
Read our review of nudus and other sustainable lipsticks here.
This is an excerpt of an article from Australian Organic News.